For climates with moderate heating and cooling needs, such as British Columbia, heat pumps are a more energy-efficient alternative to furnaces and air conditioners. Because of this there are significant rebates offered by both the Federal and Provincial governments.

The Provincial Government has released the rebate amounts for home improvements under the new LivesmartBC program. The rebate for an air source heat pump is $1060, or $1420 if it is installed with a furnace that has a variable speed motor. Add the $400 rebate under the Federal ecoENERGY program, and you have a total rebate of $1460-1820.

 

 Heat pumps are often misunderstood or not understood at all. Because of this, you may not realize that there may be a better heating and cooling option than a furnace or air conditioner. A heat pump is an efficient method of cooling your home in the summer and warming it in the winter.

Although heat pumps are new to many people, they have been around for over three decades. Although its name is a little misleading, a heat pump is an efficient method of heating a home during the cold winter months and also cooling it during the hot summer months. Like your refrigerator, heat pumps use electricity to power a compressor which compresses a refrigerant gas. This process produces both heating and cooling. A heat pump looks like an air conditioner, but that’s only the outside appearance. It actually has two functions based on the same principles for both. In warm weather situations, the heat pump works as a normal air conditioner. It extracts heat from inside the home and transfers it to the outdoor air.

In colder weather, however, the process reverses, collecting heat from the outdoor air and transferring it inside your home. Even when the air outside feels extremely cold, the air still contains some heat. The heat pump pulls the heat from this cold outdoor air and sends it inside to warm your home. While many people find the winter operation of a heat pump the most difficult to understand, it is during the heating cycle that the heat pump produces the most savings. Unlike a furnace that turns fossil fuel or electricity into heat, the heat pump collects heat that already exists in the outdoor air by means of its refrigeration cycle. Consequently, a heat pump will produce up to four times more heat than the energy it uses.

In addition, a heat pump can be an effective add-on option to use in conjunction with an existing gas furnace. Heating/Cooling coils are installed at the furnace output ducting. Usually a variable speed motor is installed as well. With a dual-fuel system, the two systems share the heating load but never function at the same time. Each system operates when it is most cost effective. The heat pump will be the primary heating and cooling system. However, when the temperature drops below the heat pump’s ability to operate as efficiently as the gas furnace, the gas furnace will take over until the temperature rises enough for the heat pump to operate more efficiently.

For homes without ducts, air-source heat pumps are also available in a ductless version called a mini-split heat pump. In addition, a special type of air-source heat pump called a "reverse cycle chiller" generates hot and cold water rather than air, allowing it to be used with radiant floor heating systems in heating mode.

Higher efficiencies are achieved with geothermal (ground-source or water-source) heat pumps, which transfer heat between your house and the ground or a nearby water source. Although they cost more to install, geothermal heat pumps have low operating costs because they take advantage of relatively constant ground or water temperatures. However, the installation depends on the size of your lot, the subsoil and landscape. Ground-source or water-source heat pumps can be used in more extreme climatic conditions than air-source heat pumps.

 

For more information about heat pumps visit our website at  http://www.pacificstarelectric.ca/
 

Why Use Recessed Lighting

   Recessed lighting offers a clean, streamlined look. It can increase the amount of light in a room, highlight artwork or other special features, and open up spaces so they look and feel bigger. Recessed lighting, if done correctly, wil increase the livability and value of your home or office.

When to Use Recessed Lighting

  Though recessed fixtures are most easily installed between ceiling joists of new building or major renovation projects, there are recessed fixtures are designed specifically for retrofit applications, they install through holes made to accommodate wiring.The fixtures you choose must be rated for use near insulation (IC rated) whenever ceiling insulation is present.

Where to Place Recessed Lighting Fixtures

    
    The common rule is that 4-inch fixtures should generally be placed at least 4 feet apart 5-inch fixtures about 5 feet apart and 6-inch fixtures about 6 feet apart. Kitchens and bathrooms will need more fixtures. You want to make sure that you have adequate amount of light. Dimmers are a great idea to control the light level and mood in a room.

    Center recessed lighting fixtures in front of the objects you wish to light – a painting, bookshelf, or drapery panels, for example – and about 12 to 18 inches in front of that object. The light should generally highlight the object at about 30 deg.

    Recessed lights used for reading or task lighting should be carefully placed overhead so your head and shoulders will not block needed light.

    When lighting a three-dimensional object such as a fireplace, sculpture, or flower arrangement with recessed lighting, it is more effective to light it from two or three different angles.

    Use wall-wash or directional recessed lighting fixtures around the perimeter of a small room to help “push” the walls out and make the space feel larger, or aim them at a collection of artwork or photographs to call attention to the display.

    Install recessed lighting fixtures (puck lights) in the bottom of your kitchen cabinets. The light will wash your counter top with focused light.

Recessed lights have 2 parts. The housing and the trim. The housing is the part that you never see, it is recessd into the ceiling. The trim is the piece that is installed into the housing and fits flush with the ceiling.

                                                                                         
Many different trims are available: all white, white with black baffle, chrome, brushed nickel, adjustable, etc. Make sure you have an idea what type of trims you would like before installing the housings as each housing has only certain types of trims that are compatible.

 

                                                                                             

                                                                                        
Make sure that the existing circuit is not overloaded.
Dimmers are generally rated for 600 watts, 1000 watt dimmers are available. Make sure to get a dimmer rated for low voltage if installing low voltage recessed lights, you must also know whether the transformer is magnetic or electronic.

 

If you would like any more information or  would like to schedule a free estimate to look at installing recessed lighting visit our website at:  http://www.pacificstarelectric.ca or call us at 604-463-6695

Automatic Standby System

  In the event of a power outage a voltage sensor automatically turns on the generator which feeds power into your generator panel and out to the associated circuits. This is the most popular and commonly used system for home and business owners.

 

   Generator- natural gas

  Automatic Transfer Switch-ensures that no generator power will be fed back into the public electricity grid
 
   Generator Panel-contains the circuits that will be powered by the generator

  *this system can also be controlled manually with a manual transfer switch*

 

Automatic Emergency System

  In the event of a power outage a voltage sensor automatically turns on the generator. Electricity is then fed to the generator panel and out to the associated circuits. This system is completely off the fuel grid and has its own fuel source. This system is mainly used in hospitals, government and other institutional buildings.

 

  Generator-diesel, gasoline or liquid propane

  Transfer Switch-ensures that no generator power will be fed back into the public electricity grid

  Generator Panel-contains the circuits that will be powered by the generator

  *this type of system is also used in rural areas and in that case is usually controlled by a manual transfer switch*

 

Grid Tie Systems 

  Power is provided through solar, wind and hydroelectric. The power produced is fed through multiple inputs into a controller. Then to an inverter which synchronizes with the power from the public electricity grid. This power can be used in your home or business or fed back into the electrical grid. Depending on how much power your system produces  your electrical meter will either slow down as you use a combination of your own power and the grid's power or your meter will spin backwards resulting in a credit. This system is used in conjunction with either an Automatic Standby System or an Automatic Emergency System.

                                                                    

 There are grants and subsidies available for alternate energy sources.           http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/corporate/incentives.cfm  http://www.livesmartbc.ca/

 

UPS Systems 

Usually used in offices for computers or computer servers. The UPS pack is plugged into the wall outlet, then the computer is plugged into the UPS pack. A battery system takes over when the power fails. The systems are rated according to time. 30 minutes, 60 minutes, 90 minutes etc. A UPS pack will also filter and regulate the voltage output so the connected electronics have a stable voltage input.

 

Generator Systems 

  A 1000W - 3500W portable generator can be used with extension cords in an emergency to power things like trouble lights, fans, fridges and freezers. 

 Never backfeed the generator power into your electrical panel. An approved transfer switch must be used. The power will flow through your panel and electrical meter then into the electrical grid. Technicians repairing the damaged power lines can be electrocuted.

 

For more information or to schedule a free estimate for any of the above power systems visit our website at            http://www.pacificstarelectric.ca/index.htm

How Much Does Electricity Cost?

 

Electricity is measured as you draw from the power grid. It flows from the supply lines and through the electrical meter. As electricity flows through a conductor an electromagnetic field is created. The strength of the electromagnetic field is directly dependant on the amount of electricity being used. The greater the strength of the field the faster the meter spins. Or, the faster the digital meter computes.

 

Electrical use is measured in Watts. We are billed for electricity use in kWh (kilowatts per hour).

 

kWh = using 1000 Watts of electricity for 1 hour.

 

1 kWh = using 10   100W light bulbs for 1 hour     Cost $.0635 to $.0827

 

1 kWh = running a 1000W vacuum for 1 hour        Cost $.0635 to $.0827

 

We have a two level rate system in BC.  As of October 1, 2008 the Step 1 rate (up to 1,350 kWh) was 5.98 cents per kWh. The Step 2 rate (above 1,350 kWh) was 7.21 cents per kWh. This has since increased, as of April 1, 2009 to Step 1 rate of 6.35 cents per kWh, and the Step 2 rate of 8.27 cents per kWh.

 

Prior to this, the rate across the board was 6.55 cents per kWh. Although we have low rates in BC, and most likely always will compared to the rest of the world, electricity rates will continue to increase.

 

Link to the BC Hydro web page on rates.

http://www.bchydro.com/news/articles/conservation/bc_hydro_s_two-step.html

 

There are numerous ways to reduce electricity costs. The simplest is to just turn the power off when your lights etc. are not in use. Energy efficient appliances, timers, dimmers, LED or compact fluorescent bulbs and high efficiency fluorescent ballasts are another solution.

 

Link to the BC Hydro web page on rebates.

http://www.bchydro.com/rebates_savings/product_incentive_program.html

 

 The energy efficient ballasts are a great thing to do for commercial buildings. The energy savings (40-70%), combined with the rebates now offered by BC Hydro will pay for the entire project in 18-30 months. After that, the savings go directly to the bottom line.

 

Our population is increasing, energy use is increasing and electricity rates are increasing. The most efficient solution, from an electrical standpoint, is to build mega-project hydroelectric dams in out of the way places.

 

British Columbians have been building dams since the turn of the century. The period of greatest activity occurred in the 1950's, 60's, and 70's when BC pursued an aggressive program of large-scale dam construction. Hydroelectric power production (for domestic use and export) was the major purpose of these large-scale dams. Most British Columbians embraced dam construction in the post-war period as a positive step toward economic prosperity. That began to change in the 1970's as residents witnessed the serious environmental and social costs of dams. The decline of fish stocks and the permanent drowning of productive farmland, valley-bottom forest, scenic canyons, and (in some cases) entire towns fueled a growing public opposition to new dams. During the 1970's and 80's, grass-roots lobbying blocked the construction of new dams on the Skagit, Stikine, and Peace rivers.

Recently, BC's provincial government responded to public opinion by legislatively protecting important salmon rivers against future dams under the Fish Protection Act. In addition, BC has embraced two important programs — the "BC Heritage Rivers System" and the "Canadian Heritage Rivers System" — which officially commemorate BC rivers that represent outstanding values of provincial and national significance. These values include history, culture, economy, recreation, and ecology.

 

Programs are in place for smaller private projects and many such projects are under way. As a homeowner or business owner you can install a grid-tie system and produce your own electricity. Slowing down your meter or feeding power back into the system and receiving a cheque from BC Hydro.

 

We want more electricity and we don’t want to pay very much for it. But we also don’t want to build hydroelectric projects. Something will have to give. At the moment, rates are increasing and incentives are being put in place to reduce usage.

 

For information on back up power system or grid tie systems contact us at enquiries@pacificstarelectric.ca.

 

Or visit our website at:  http://www.pacificstarelectric.ca/

 

A is single phase power. Household use, safer, less efficient.

B is three phase power. Commercial/Industrial use, 73% more efficient, more expensive to install, motors last longer, speed control is better.

   

The horizonal line in the center is zero/off/no power. As you can see, in single phase, power output drops to zero then to full then back again. Three phase power never falls to zero. It only falls to 73% of full.

Three phase power is not allowed for household use. The highly efficient overlapping power band is dangerous. If someone grips a cable energized by three phase it is very difficult to let go. Short circuits are more dangerous.

 

For more information or to request a free estimate click here:

www.pacificstarelectric.ca

 

In 1887 direct current (DC) was king. At that time there were 121 Edison power stations scattered across North Americathe delivering DC electricity to its customers. But DC had a great limitation -- namely, that power plants could only send DC electricity about a mile before the electricity began to lose power. So when George Westinghouse introduced high-voltage alternating current (AC), made possible by the invention of the alternating current transformer by Nicholas Tesla, he could send electricity hundreds of miles with little loss of power. People naturally took notice. A "battle of the currents" ensued. In the end, Tesla's AC prevailed.

The electricity in the power lines near your home or business range from 14, 400 - 125, 000 volts!

 The higher the voltage the higher the amount of power that can be transported in the same size of wire. Double the amount of power can be transported at 240V compared to 120V. Conversely, 240V has double the danger of 120V.


North America operates on a 120/240V 60Khz system.

The rest of the world uses 220/440V 50-60Khz, unless the country (Cuba, Costa Rica etc.) was industrialized by the Americans.

110-125V        Basic household appliances and lighting in North America.
208V                 Three phase (industrial, commercial) power for heating, dryers, motors etc. in North America.
220-240V          Household power for heaters, motors, large loads in North America. Basic power for household appliances and lighting outside North America.
347V                 Three phase (industrial, commercial) power for lighting and motors.
440V                 Household power for heating, motors, large loads outside North America.
480V                 Early Delta system commercial/industrial power in North America.
600V                 Three phase (industrial, commercial) power for heating, large motors, chargers. The most efficient but the most dangerous type of power available available for use.

Three phase power is 1.73 times more efficient than single phase power. Three phase is not available for household use, too dangerous.

All electrical work, with some small exceptions, requires a permit whether done by a contractor or a homeowner. An electrical permit gives permission or authorization in writing to perform work regulated by the BC Safety Authority. Contractors must obtain permits and submit an  Electrical Contractor Authorization as the work progresses and upon completion of the installation.

An electrical permit is not required for:

1) The replacement of defective fuses, receptacles, switches or lamps with identical types and ratings.

2) Emergency work



Who Can Take Out an Electrical Permit?

The person or company doing the work takes out the electrical permit. If you hire someone to do the work, they must obtain the permit. If you're doing the work yourself, you need to obtain the permit and must reside in the  fully detached single-family dwelling.

A fully detached single family dwelling means any of the following if occupied or intended by the owner to be occupied as a permanent residence:

    
   1)   Any detached building containing only one dwelling unit;
    
   2)   A manufactured home as defined in the Manufactured Home Act;
    
   3)  A recreational vehicle

 
Hiring an Electrical Contractor

If you’re re-wiring your home or doing renovations that require new or altered electrical systems, the best way to proceed is to hire a qualified electrical contractor licensed with the BC Safety Authority.

All licensed contractors are, or employ, electricians who are certified Field Safety Representatives (FSR).  An FSR is the person who will be responsible for the permit issued to the contractor, with the class of the FSR determining the scope of work the contractor is allowed to perform.  

All FSRs have demonstrated to the BC Safety Authority that they have the necessary qualifications – and passed a written exam administered by us – before being issued a Field Safety Representative Certificate of Qualification. This allows them to install, maintain, operate and repair electrical products.


Areas of the Lower Mainland

Dependng on the area you live there are different requirements for obtaining a permit.

In Vancouver, Burnaby, Surrey, North Vancouver City, North Vancouver District, West Vancouver, Maple Ridge the municipalities themselves issue permits and do the inspections. They inspect 100% of the work.

In the remaining municipalities, Coquitlam, Port Coquitlam, Pitt Meadows, Abbotsford, Mission, Whiterock, New Westminster, Richmond, Delta, Tsawwassen, Ladner the province issues the electrical permit and does the inspection. 25% of the work is inspected.

 

Permit Form Here  

permit form.pdf (2.42 mb)

 

For more information or to request a free estimate click here:

www.pacificstarelectric.ca

 

Your electrical service is the system which brings power from the electrical utility provider (BC Hydro) to your home. There are 2 different types.

 

Overhead: Wiring is run on power poles then distributed to individual homes and buildings.

 

Underground: Wiring is in underground conduits or cables then brought to the individual homes and building through a dedicated underground conduit or cable.

 

Both systems consist of the electrical panel, circuit breakers, meter base, grounding and bonding system and the wiring from the meter base that connect to the underground or overhead system.

The electrical utility provider owns and is responsible for the meter installed in your meter base and the underground or overhead lines which bring electricity to the building.

 

There are a number of different reasons for upgrading your Electrical Service. 

1) Renovations, additions, outbuildings

2) Adding significant electrical loads

3) Replacing an outdated or unsafe Electrical Service

4) Damage from wind, vehicle impact, grow-op etc.

5) Requirement by your insurance company or the electrical inspection authority

 

Panel Replacement or Upgrade 

 

This involves disconnecting power to the building, removing the existing electrical panel, then installing a new panel. The grounding and bonding systems are inspected to confirm they are intact.

Grounding: Approximately 70% of the homes where we have replaced the electrical panel have had no grounding system prior to our work. In older homes (25+ years old) the main water line has often been replaced. The original main water line was copper and this was also the grounding for the electrical system. When the original copper line is removed and the new PVC (plastic) water line is installed the home has no grounding system. The electrical system ground has essentially been disconnected from the earth. Check at your main water shut-off inside the building. There is a clamp that attaches a copper wire to the water lines. If you do not have a minimum of 10 ft of copper water line in the earth at this point you have no ground. The solution is to install an approved grounding plate or grounding rods.

Bonding: All metal plumbing, waste or natural gas lines in the building must be bonded (electrically connected) together. Usually natural gas lines installed after the home was built have not been connected to the bonding system. There should be a visible clamp connection from the metal plumbing and gas lines to the electrical panel. If not, the solution is to install a copper wire from the metal lines to the bond connection in the electrical panel.

 

Installing a Sub-Panel

 

Often this is all that’s needed if you need space for new circuits or an addition or renovation. The sub-panel is installed close to the original main electrical panel or where the new circuits will be needed (outbuilding, suite, new kitchen etc.).

Sometimes the existing breakers can be reconfigured or replaced to free up additional circuit space as well.

 

Service Rebuild

 

This involves removing the existing meter base, panel and (overhead service only) the conduit or cable attaching to the BC Hydro lines, then installing new components.

 

For questions, or a free estimate on upgrading your electrical service click here:

www.pacificstarelectric.ca

 

 

If your house was built before WWII you probably have knob and tube wiring.

Modern house wiring has three to five conductors encased in a tough thermoplastic jacket. Knob and tube wiring is a single conductor system, the copper is protected by a rubber, fibre type coating which after 50 years or so has begun to break down. Possibly having bare copper exposed. The most dangerous part of knob and tube wiring is when it has been "tapped into" by someone who didn't know what they were doing. We have seen connections where the original knob and tube insulation has been stripped off and new wiring has been laid beside or twisted around it then taped in place. This is an electrical fire waiting to happen. Another common problem is replacing the original fuse with a larger size fuse. Someone is making toast and boiling water in the electric kettle at the same time and the fuse blows, I know, lets put in a bigger fuse! This solves the problem of the fuse blowing but causes a much more dangerous problem. A copper wire which was designed to safely carry 15 amps of electricity is now carrying 20, 25 or even 30 amps. The wire heats up, this causes the protective insulation around the wire to break down. I have seen knob and tube wiring where one small bend of the wire will cause all the original insulation to fall off. The copper itself is brittle and prone to breakage.

If the knob and tube wiring is in good condition and has not been tampered with, there is a way to make it safe. See solution 2.

 Knob and tube wiring also has no bond (sometimes incorrectly referred to as ground) wire, the bare copper wire you see in modern wiring. If the "hot" (black) knob and tube wire touches a copper water line, or any other metal plumbing line and the wires insulation has broken down the metal may become electrified and the fuse or circuit breaker will NOT trip.

There are solutions to make knob and tube wiring safe.

1) The best solution is to remove it and install modern Loomex, Romex NMD type wiring.

 

2)You can also GFI protect it. This means installing a GFI receptacle or a GFCI breaker as the first device the electricity flows through. Then everything "downstream" is protected. This must be done for each circuit. Your wiring is safe and will be accepted by your insurer. See our website   http://www.pacificstarelectric.ca/faq.asp#1   for an explanation of GFI protection.

 

If you have knob and tube wiring and are concerned about it or would like a free estimate contact us at http://www.pacificstarelectric.ca

People worry about aluminum branch circuit wiring (i.e. the wires from the circuit breakers going to plugs, switches and lights) and with good reason.  Wherever possible it should be replaced with copper. However, it's sometimes not feasible to replace your aluminum wiring.

 

The use of aluminum branch circuit wiring was widespread from the mid 1960's until the early to mid 1970's. Problems began to occur because aluminum is prone to breakage due to improper stripping of the wires, over-tightening of splices, cold forming etc. Most problems show up in the electrical splice.  Aluminum will also oxidize when exposed to the air which causes poor conductivity and heat build-up. Because of this, there is a risk of an electrical fire with aluminum wiring and it was subsequently banned for use in branch circuit wiring.

 

Some symptoms of immediate problems with aluminum wiring are lights flickering or plugs that will not work even with all the circuits turned on.All insurance providers will require that a home with aluminum wiring either have the aluminum wiring replaced with copper or be inspected and certified by a licensed electrician. This involves physically inspecting all of the connections, installing approved connectors, using approved aluminum devices or copper pigtail wiring and using an anti-oxidant compound. If your wiring has been inspected, repaired and certified then the aluminum wiring system will outlast most other systems in your home (plumbing, roof, perimeter drains, windows, etc.).

 

Aluminum is still in widespread use today for distribution wiring. It is an excellent conductor, lightweight, strong and much more cost effective than copper. The BC Hydro supply lines that come to your home are aluminum, as is almost the entire power grid. Aluminum is commonly used as main distribution wiring within multi-family buildings (townhouses, condos) to bring power from the main service to the individual units. It is also used within houses to bring power from the main electrical panel to sub-panels, stoves or other large loads.

 

Aluminum is a good choice for main distribution wiring, NOT for branch circuit wiring.

 

If you would like more information or would like to schedule a free estimate visit our website at   http://www.pacificstarelectric.ca