A surge protector is a great way to protect your property.

Surge protectors, also known as surge suppressors, limit the amount of voltage to a safe level. The standard voltage in North America is 120V. If the voltage drops or rises past a predetermined safe level, the surge protector regulates the voltage.

Power Bar – Many power bars have an overload or surge protection built right in. Price $10-$60

Circuit Surge Protectors – Will protect a specific circuit in the electrical panel. $65-$95*

System Surge Protectors – Protection for the entire electrical system. $145-$2000*

 *Installation extra

Three Way

The light, or electrical load, is controlled from two locations. Usually the top and bottom of a staircase, or two entrances to a hallway. By code, in Canada, hallways and stairwells must be controlled by three way switches. It can be dangerous to be walking up or down a dark stairwell searching for a light switch at the opposite end.

The question, or puzzled look, we get is why are they called three way switches when the light is controlled from two locations? Why isn’t it a two way?

The term three way refers to the construction of the switch, not what it does. There are three terminals or connection points on a three way switch.  “Common”. Two  “travellers”. The bond/ground and the neutral are independent of any switching, or at least they should be! Sometimes we find neutral wires which are switched. A dangerous situation which is prohibited in the electrical code because of the increased danger of electrocution to service technicians.

Four Way

A four way switch is needed when the light, or electrical load, is controlled from more than two locations. Generally a hallway with three entrances. Kitchens as well with more than two entry points.

In theory, and also bending a few physics laws, you could have an infinite number of switches to control a light fixture. Just keep adding four way switches between two three way switches. The “travellers” from the three way switches connect on either side of the four way switch.

Two way switch? Five way switch? They don’t exist. Just three way and four way switches.

A common call we get from customers is when their three way switches don’t work. 90% of the time a “handyman” has been doing electrical work in the house. The travellers and common have been improperly connected during a switch change. In this case, it is a quick diagnosis and repair by one of our technicians.

There’s been widespread interest in LED (Light Emitting Diode) technology for a number of years. Originally the LED’s were a bluish, weak light which even though it used less electricity, produced little heat and lasted for a very long time, just wasn’t a useful light source. Recently the cost and functionality of LED’s has got to the point where they’re now being commonly used in many applications. There is a lot of demand for LED products and now affordable products are coming to market quickly.

We have a small travel trailer and after our first camping trip last season and worrying about light’s being left on and batteries dying I found some replacement LED bulbs and installed them for our second trip. No worries about leaving lights on now. Just have to find a solution for the 12V water pump now. I’ll keep you posted. One of our service technicians who has a background in electronics has converted his 18V flashlight to an LED flashlight. Our 18V rechargeable flashlights are used all the time as our electricians are frequently dispatched to sites where a customer has no power and no lights. Usually the flashlight with a fully charged battery has about a 45 minute life with a bright powerful light. Then the light gets dimmer and dimmer as the battery runs down. The LED converted flashlight will shine brightly for about 30 hours.

As electrical contractors, our main interest in LED’s is for lighting applications.  Compared to a standard 60W tungsten filament light bulb, the lifespan of an LED equivalent is 2500-5000% longer and the energy use is about .04%. Mainly because of the drastically reduced energy use BC Hydro has been offering significant rebates to customers over the past few years. For example, if you replace your standard exit sign, which is on 24 hrs a day 365 days a year, with an LED exit sign BC Hydro will give you a $55 rebate.

We now use LED low voltage puck lights for all of our undercabinet lighting. Exterior flood and security lighting, service stations, traffic lights, automotive brake and signal lights and of course, exit signs are all other areas where LED’s are becoming the standard choice.

They are still more expensive to purchase than standard lights. But when factors such as maintenance and energy use are taken into account they will pay for themselves over a 1-2 year time frame. However, be cautious with LED specification information. At a recent lighting workshop I attended sponsored by BC Hydro we were told that LED lighting is not measured in a consistent way compared to other lighting types. Maintenance and repair is a significant part of the work we do and installing a product which will reduce that may not be in our best interests, short term. But we will always recommend a product which we feel is the best one for our clients.

Contact us at http://www.pacificstarelectric.ca/index.htm for more information

Your electrical service is the system which brings power from the electrical utility provider (BC Hydro) to your home. There are 2 different types.

Overhead: Wiring is run on power poles then distributed to individual homes and buildings.

Underground: Wiring is in underground conduits or cables then brought to the individual homes and building through a dedicated underground conduit or cable.

Both systems consist of the electrical panel, circuit breakers, meter base, grounding and bonding system and the wiring from the meter base that connect to the underground or overhead system.

The electrical utility provider owns and is responsible for the meter installed in your meter base and the underground or overhead lines which bring electricity to the building.

There are a number of different reasons for upgrading your Electrical Service.

1) Renovations, additions, outbuildings

2) Adding significant electrical loads

3) Replacing an outdated or unsafe Electrical Service

4) Damage from wind, vehicle impact, grow-op etc.

5) Requirement by your insurance company or the electrical inspection authority

Panel Replacement or Upgrade

This involves disconnecting power to the building, removing the existing electrical panel, then installing a new panel. The grounding and bonding systems are inspected to confirm they are intact.

Grounding: Approximately 70% of the homes where we have replaced the electrical panel have had no grounding system prior to our work. In older homes (25+ years old) the main water line has often been replaced. The original main water line was copper and this was also the grounding for the electrical system. When the original copper line is removed and the new PVC (plastic) water line is installed the home has no grounding system. The electrical system ground has essentially been disconnected from the earth. Check at your main water shut-off inside the building. There is a clamp that attaches a copper wire to the water lines. If you do not have a minimum of 10 ft of copper water line in the earth at this point you have no ground. The solution is to install an approved grounding plate or grounding rods.

Bonding: All metal plumbing, waste or natural gas lines in the building must be bonded (electrically connected) together. Usually natural gas lines installed after the home was built have not been connected to the bonding system. There should be a visible clamp connection from the metal plumbing and gas lines to the electrical panel. If not, the solution is to install a copper wire from the metal lines to the bond connection in the electrical panel.

Installing a Sub-Panel

Often this is all that’s needed if you need space for new circuits or an addition or renovation. The sub-panel is installed close to the original main electrical panel or where the new circuits will be needed (outbuilding, suite, new kitchen etc.).

Sometimes the existing breakers can be reconfigured or replaced to free up additional circuit space as well.

Service Rebuild

This involves removing the existing meter base, panel and (overhead service only) the conduit or cable attaching to the BC Hydro lines, then installing new components.

For questions, or a free estimate on upgrading your electrical service click here:

www.pacificstarelectric.ca

All electrical work, with some small exceptions, requires a permit whether done by a contractor or a homeowner. An electrical permit gives permission or authorization in writing to perform work regulated by the BC Safety Authority. Contractors must obtain permits and submit an  Electrical Contractor Authorization as the work progresses and upon completion of the installation.

An electrical permit is not required for:

1) The replacement of defective fuses, receptacles, switches or lamps with identical types and ratings.

2) Emergency work



Who Can Take Out an Electrical Permit?

The person or company doing the work takes out the electrical permit. If you hire someone to do the work, they must obtain the permit. If you're doing the work yourself, you need to obtain the permit and must reside in the  fully detached single-family dwelling.

A fully detached single family dwelling means any of the following if occupied or intended by the owner to be occupied as a permanent residence:


1) Any detached building containing only one dwelling unit;

2) A manufactured home as defined in the Manufactured Home Act;

3) A recreational vehicle


Hiring an Electrical Contractor

If you’re re-wiring your home or doing renovations that require new or altered electrical systems, the best way to proceed is to hire a qualified electrical contractor licensed with the BC Safety Authority.

All licensed contractors are, or employ, electricians who are certified Field Safety Representatives (FSR).  An FSR is the person who will be responsible for the permit issued to the contractor, with the class of the FSR determining the scope of work the contractor is allowed to perform.  

All FSRs have demonstrated to the BC Safety Authority that they have the necessary qualifications – and passed a written exam administered by us – before being issued a Field Safety Representative Certificate of Qualification. This allows them to install, maintain, operate and repair electrical products.


Areas of the Lower Mainland

Dependng on the area you live there are different requirements for obtaining a permit.

In Vancouver, Burnaby, Surrey, North Vancouver City, North Vancouver District, West Vancouver, Maple Ridge the municipalities themselves issue permits and do the inspections. They inspect 100% of the work.

In the remaining municipalities, Coquitlam, Port Coquitlam, Pitt Meadows, Abbotsford, Mission, Whiterock, New Westminster, Richmond, Delta, Tsawwassen, Ladner the province issues the electrical permit and does the inspection. 25% of the work is inspected.

Permit Form Here

permit form.pdf (2.42 mb)

For more information or to request a free estimate click here:

www.pacificstarelectric.ca